Mull May 2013

Mull Report May 2013

Friday 17^th

All packed up and off at 7 o’clock to Leighton Moss which has become our half way stop to Mull! Decided 500mm lens was getting heavy to walk around with so took my new 400mm F5.6 lens for a walk around. However when we got Lower Hide and saw a pair of Marsh Harriers passing food I wished I had taken the 500mm. Still it was lovely to see. As time was pressing on we decided to travel the rest of our journey to our overnight stop in Glasgow. We do this so that on Saturday we just have the nice drive to Oban (from Braehead which is north of the city and along the shores of Loch Lomond)

Saturday 18^th

Great excitement as always – up early for breakfast and off to Oban. For the first time in our trips to Mull (this is our third) the sun shone and the temperature gradually climbed to 14° C – a good omen we thought for our 2 weeks on Mull! Loch Lomond looked beautiful in the sunshine and we always enjoy this part of the trip anyway as it feels like we are actually on holiday now. Shopping in Tesco, Oban and fill up with fuel (you don’t want to buy fuel on Mull!) then to the ferry. Sunshine and warmth – off the ferry 15 minutes and we arrived at our destination – Fingal Cottage in Lochdonhead. Nice and early so we had time to unpack and walk to the bridge where the otter is usually seen.

Sunday 19^th

Cloudy, dull and cold so we decided to walk to Grasspoint – not along the 3 mile road though (would have been too easy!) but along the loch side. What we didn’t realise was that it was much further that way – lovely to walk along the shore but there were many inlets and promontories so it wasn’t straight forward! However plenty of birdlife (list of species seen HERE) highlight of which was a Short Eared Owl unfortunately we could not get a good enough photo. Actually no photo at all! Found some early purple orchids at the edge of woodland (I should have taken my macro lens but had the SX50 as it was light enough to walk all day with). We cut back across to the road at this point as we realised it would take all day on the shore – a herd of red deer were running around giving us good views of them. As we walked down the road we spotted our first White Tailed Eagles (we ended the holiday having seen at least one eagle every day!). At Grasspoint (closest part of Mull to the mainland) there was a seal (just one) but not much else so we wandered back to the cottage.

Monday 20^th

This was the day of our trip with Mull Charters on the Lady Jayne to see White Tailed Eagles at close quarters. Now what lens to take? I decided to take the 400mm and also the 70-200 so I was covered whatever happened. This is an amazing trip – I would heartily recommend this to anyone interested in birds or photography. We had no idea how good it really would be – the skipper Martin Keivers cares passionately about these eagles and we were treated to a very informative commentary about them. He threw bread to attract the gulls and when the eagles saw the commotion they came to investigate – this is when the fish was thrown onto the loch and the eagle grabbed it. The pressure was on to get a great shot! Realising the 400mm would be too long I switched to the 70-200 – then as the eagle came down for the first catch I caught sight of Tam out of the corner of my eye – and panicked!! She had my camera with 400mm lens firing at the bird – having got caught up in the excitement. So I had to try and ignore that and try to get some shots. Looking back it would have been nice to just watch the action – from the bird in the sky to flying off with the fish was literally two seconds! Thanks to my lens I got some shots which I was very pleased with HERE but if you ever go on this trip be warned – it is all over very quickly. What a trip though – here is the video which shows what happens.

Tuesday 21^st

Weather seemed to bet improving – warmer again today. This was Iona day. Set off for the hour drive – however the sat nav hadn’t learned yet about Mull roads! So when we arrived at the last minute (90 minutes later actually) for the ferry it was a mad panic to catch it. Fortunately all the passengers seemed to be late and we made it ok. It is only a ten minute crossing and once we arrived and walked away from the main centre it was so very peaceful. We decided to walk to St Columba’s Bay – beautiful scenery and loads of wildlife. A picnic on the beach here was lovely. On arrival back near the Abbey we heard the unmistakeable sound of the Corncrake and we were fortunate enough to see one – not a very good picture but it was such a privilege to see one.

One of the things I personally love about Mull and Iona is the lack of lots of people – in our very overcrowded land it is rare to find peace and quiet. No crowds, no queues, no litter, no chewing gum on the pavements (actually no pavements!) – maybe it is because we are with like-minded people but it is lovely! And the people live in harmony with the natural world (pretty much how it must have been at one time on the mainland).

After arriving back at Fingal Cottage I sat at the loch side – two cuckoos (yes two!) flew over the loch. Actually there were cuckoos all over Mull – we do not get them back home these days but everywhere we went there was the sound  of cuckoos calling. Also Osprey fishing over the loch.

Wednesday 22^nd

Today is our trip to the Treshnish Isles (specifically Lunga) to see the sea bird colonies. Also included is a visit to Staffa (Mendelssohn and his Hebridean Overture etc.) and Fingal’s cave. So lenses cleaned, batteries charged and memory cards cleared we set off for the drive to Ulva Ferry to board the boat for the trip. Weather was a bit iffy and it was very windy but the boat was fine until it cleared the shelter of the headland! Then it was like being the proverbial cork being tossed all over the place!! However the hour journey was over at last (only one person sea sick and it wasn’t any of us!!) and it was time to disembark and venture over the slippery rocks to Lunga. Just as we remembered it several years before the puffins were waiting for us (they actually really were as when humans arrive on the island the larger birds which bully them disappear and so it is safe for the puffins to come to land). This is also a fantastic trip – if you are a photographer then you are presented with some wonderful photo opportunities and if you just want to see the birds then you will be in bird heaven! Needless to say hundreds of images were taken (still sorting through them now!!)

The journey back from Lunga to Staffa was even rougher! Enough said. Staffa is a lovely little island and there were also puffins here. We took the opportunity to walk to the cave and see the basalt columns disappear under the sea (they appear again at the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland) then boarded the boat for the (even rougher!) journey back to Ulva. What a fantastic day.

As it was fairly late when we arrived back we treated ourselves to tea at the Craignure Hotel which was really, really nice. We would recommend this hotel very much as well as the Bellhaven Best!!

Thursday 23^rd

Poor weather forecast for today – it really was but not as bad as we thought. Managed to do a few walks around locally between showers – even found an antler from quite a large stag. Later I experimented with the Lee Big Stopper – had bought it a couple of months ago and never really had the chance to try it out. I have to say it must take a lot of use to be proficient with it!!

Friday 23^th

A better forecast today and so it turned out. We had decided to venture to Lochbuie anyway whatever the weather. A great choice as it turned out – the weather was fantastic and we were treated with some amazing skies. The sky was a lovely shade of blue with spectacular cloud formations. The drive was very good also along the side of Loch Spelve with great views of Golden Eagle. Lots of wheatears, rock pipits and pied wagtails around and in the 17 degree temperature I obtained my customary red forehead!!

We walked along the shore to the beautiful Laggan Sands, shame the castle was covered in scaffolding but you can’t have everything. Also visited the stone circle with more views of golden eagle, a lovely little church. It was even warm enough to see some heat haze and have some ice cream from the small unattended shop in Lochbuie!

Then drove back for high tide and our nightly otter hunt – still no luck.

Saturday 24^th

Ulva Ferry today - we had remembered what a wonderful peaceful place it was. Sadly when we arrived it was closed!! We weren’t expecting that so had to revert to plan B (well we made one up as didn’t have an alternative plan!). We went to Loch Na Keale to look for otters – still no luck. Decided then to get our weekly shopping and go back to base for a trip to Grasspoint. We were surprised to find a thriving colony of green hairstreak in the sunshine. Plenty of stonechats around but no seals off Grasspoint.

Sunday 25^th

Ulva Ferry again! We had actually checked that it would be open today and as the weather was amazingly still lovely we ended up doing a lovely walk around the Farm Circuit and the Shore and Woodland walk. It was warm and sunny (unusual for us on Mull!) and plenty of butterflies around. When it is sunny like this Mull really is the best place in the world to be.

Monday 26^th

It had to end soon!! Weather bad for the morning so we watched and enjoyed Les Miserables and had some lunch in the cottage. Weather started to improve then so decided to find a blooming otter somewhere and off we went to Loch Scridain (probably the most reliable place on Mull to see one). Driving up and down was hopeless so we decided to walk. Parked the car at one end of the loch and started walking up and down. No luck but then……… what was that shape near the shore? Yes we had found our own otter – a big dog otter which may have been the same one from a couple of years ago. We tracked it along the loch or a total of about 3 miles remembering to be still and out of sight when he was on the surface and move quickly to be ahead of him when underwater. We usually had around 30 seconds when he was under and eventually managed to get ahead and near the water behind some rocks and waited. Wow – he came out of the water quite close and proceeded to sit and dry himself for what seemed to be ages. What a privilege to be able to see this magnificent animal (who was seemingly unaware of us). Best moment of the holiday so far I think!

Tuesday 27^th

The day dawned warm and sunny – amazing weather and we felt lucky to be treated so well. Forget the long trousers, coats, thermals etc. this was shorts and tee shirts. Off to Fidden to look for hares – quite a long drive to Fionnphort to park and then find out where to go. Ended up driving to a camp site and parking nearby. It was on this drive that we commented on the standard of driving and courtesy of other motorists – this had changed since our previous visit and it seemed that less drivers were willing to wait and there were certainly more cars parked in passing places!! Anyway Fidden was beautiful and we counted 32 hares in total. The best tactic was to sit and wait – before long one would come along and be startled – it would stop (just enough time to take a shot) and then run off fast in the direction it had come from! They didn’t seem to be bothered about the cliffs either as we saw several running up almost vertical cliffs. Lots of birds also – oystercatchers, wheatears, lapwings plovers and herons. There were some fantastic views to Iona across the small stretch of water which separates it from Mull.

On the way back we stopped at the old bridge near Pennyghael but the light was starting to go so ended up driving back for tea.

Wednesday 29^th

Visited Garmony and Fishnish today. Quite a pleasant walk along near the shore but not as close as we would have liked. More green hairstreaks along with orange tip, green veined white and peacock. Grasspoint in the afternoon and found the green hairstreaks again (just along the road to Grasspoint from the parking place). 21 degrees today – lovely views of sea eagles again.

Thursday 30^th

Something new for us today – we went to the Ardmeanach peninsula – the long walk to see the fossil tree would be too far so we decided to park at the NT car park at Berg and just walk along the track. A beautiful day again and warm and sunny. Butterflies all over again – green hairstreak, pearl bordered fritillary, speckled wood, green veined white, peacock and orange tip mainly. Heard cuckoos again – it seemed that wherever we went on Mull there were cuckoos. This is a walk which is a must to anyone visiting Mull – no need to do the whole 10 miles and back to the fossilised tree as the walk we did was fantastic – ruined settlements, superb views, butterflies and other insects as well as a great variety of flowers.

Back to base via the Three Lochs but light wasn’t right so we had a quick look and decided to return the following day.

Friday 31^st

Last day – what a shame! However we have had the most wonderful two weeks in great weather and on a great island. Every day there had been something to see at the cottage – sea eagles, all manner of water birds and butterflies and lots of spring flowers. Cuckoos abound on the island and most days we saw golden eagle – in addition we also saw short eared owl, tawny owl, buzzards and hen harrier.

We all decided that Lochbuie was a special place and so returned there – we did attempt to drive to Croggan but this is a place best walked to not driven!! So we spent the whole day walking from Lochbuie the opposite direction to our first visit. Seals, great views and just a lovely walk.

There was a stop to take in the Three Lochs and as the light was brilliant managed to take some reasonable images (well we had to as it is probably the most photographed scene on Mull)!

That’s it then – all done and packed for home.

But it wasn’t quite the end.

At around nine thirty we ventured out to the bridge for the last time to see if we could see the elusive otter. We met a family from Manchester who originated from Nottingham (small world etc!) and then at about 9:40 we saw…. an otter. Sadly not any good photos as it was too dark (although we did see a hedgehog) but to see the otter we had tried to see for two weeks was a great way to end the trip!

Bring on the next trip to Mull (or is it Skye next……)

Mull in October 2011

Friday 30th September

With the rest of the country baking in temperatures of 28 degrees it was time for us to head off to Mull for the second time this year. It seemed a pity to leave the nice late summer weather behind but as we travelled up the M6 we found that the sun followed us and our day at Leighton Moss RSPB reserve turned out to be very hot and sunny.
Highlight of the day was the sight of two Marsh Harriers fairly close and two swans who kept chasing each other around the lake.
After this break of a few hours we set off once again for the second part of our journey – this stage would take us to Glasgow and our Travelodge in Braehead. We were ready for tea and we were looking forward to visiting Wetherspoons as it is always good value for both food and drink.

Saturday 1st October

Not such an early start today so that we can recover from our 5 o’clock morning yesterday and we were ready for the final part of our trip to Mull – this began with a lovely breakfast (Wetherspoons again!) and a wet drive along the banks of Loch Lomond. We saw the start of the England v Scotland World Cup rugby match but had to listen to snippets on the radio during our journey. On arrival in Oban the rain stopped and it became a warm but still overcast day.  Shopping in Tesco – a quick fill of petrol (expensive this time) and then on to the ferry to Mull which departed on time at 2pm. The weather even allowed for some photographs on the journey over to Craignure. Sighting the Lismore light is always exciting for me as it signifies that we are nearly on Mull.
After disembarking we had some time to spare and so we stopped en route in Salen to see our favourite old boats (still there but looking a little dull this time). There was also some bird life around including some oystercatchers a curlew and a heron.
We then travelled onwards from there to our holiday accommodation along a very good road for Mull (Aros to Dervaig) and arrival at [url=www.calgaryunique.co.uk]Bruach Roineach[/url] at 16:30. We had a wonderfully warm and friendly welcome from our hosts Joan and Ian and a quick tour of our holiday cottage for the next week.
After unpacking we decided to take a walk down to Calgary Bay as it looked like it should be a nice sunset. We were not disappointed even though it looked at one stage as if it would just fizzle out into grey sky. We had just decided to walk home when the sky turned red!  We stayed for another half hour and saw the most fantastic sunset – hope the pictures do it justice!
We then walked home to the sound of tawny owls in the woods and a well-earned dinner!  Early to bed and rest after a lovely and interesting day.

Sunday 2nd October

A dull start to the day but we had decided to take it easy anyway so had a nice relaxing breakfast and coffee while the weather brightened. Amazingly the day was fantastic – sunny, bright, and warm and virtually no wind. Two consecutive days on Mull without rain must be some sort of record!
We decided to walk down the lane at the side of the house which wound its way for 3 miles to the shoreline and Caliach Point. From here you can The Small Isles (or Inner Hebrides) – these being the islands of Canna,  Rhum,  Eigg, Muck and one of the last manned lighthouses in the UK called Oigh Sgeir.  Beyond the islands of Coll and Tiree in the West lies the Atlantic separated only by the Hebrides or Western Isles a chain of islands some 40 Nautical Miles away. After a brief detour to see if we could get to the sea we walked through a small herd of highland cattle and found a nice little rocky inlet where we could stop for a picnic. We also saw one of the first Brent Geese to arrive on Mull and some Rock Pipits.
Still sunny we walked back to the cottage and arrived back for a drink and rest – looked at our photos and waited for the sunset. Well after such a lovely day it was bound to be good wasn’t it!  Wrong – after waiting for around 20 minutes the sunset fizzled out into dull grey clouds and it began to drizzle – welcome back to Mull weather!
A quick drive back to Bruach Roineach for another lovely tea and a relaxing evening.  Tomorrow we are off to Craignure to meet Pete Hall of [url=www.mullwildlifetours.co.uk]Mull Wildlife Tours[/url] for our holiday highlight which is a day out finding local wildlife. We are hoping for mountain hare, eagles, otters and deer as it is the start of the rutting season.

Monday 3rd October

What a change in the weather! Monday dawned dull and very very windy but we set out for our meeting point at Craignure never the less. It was not actually cold and not raining – yet! We parked and had a coffee while waiting for Pete to arrive (we were early). After the introductions and loading the gear into the vehicle we set off north to Craignure to see what we could find. Almost immediately we saw an otter just offshore – then it began to rain. And the wind increased in strength. Oh yes and it got dark! We saw the otter for a little while longer and then it disappeared, maybe sensing our presence though how in the wind and rain I shall never know!
We searched the hill tops for deer (there were some) and eagles (there were none) and then moved a little further and took the road to Loch Na Keal (where we saw our first otter back in May). Not so lucky today so we turned around and turned off towards the south side of the loch. This looked a really promising bit of coast line but in the rain and wind there was not much around. After a lovely lunch break we continued around Ben More amongst some wonderful scenery with some amazing waterfalls towards Loch Scridain. We did see a white tailed sea eagle sat in a tree which took off and flew around us (sadly out of camera range) which was lovely to see and then along the loch side we spotted two more otters one of which came close enough to the shore for some good views.
All too soon we were on our way back to Craignure to say good bye after a very enjoyable day.
Tomorrow we have booked for the RSPB eagle hide at 10 and we are all looking forward to that.

Tuesday 4th October

Got the wrong end of Loch Frisa! Arrived at the northern end as the leaflet said and called the RSPB warden Debbie to check we were in the right place but she was not available. When we finally did get through to her we had come to the wrong place. Never mind – we had to rebook for Wednesday at 10 and this time to go to the Aros end of the loch. So we decided to go to Tobermory instead and had a coffee in the [url=www.tobermorychocolate.co.uk]Chocolate Shop [/url]and after a little walk and browse in the shops we drove south to Salen. Stopped and walked back up the coast towards Aros pausing for another lovely picnic on the shores of the Sound of Mull. Wildlfe all around us – we saw rock pipits, curlews, oystercatchers, seals and an otter (not within easy sight but there never the less). Another highlight was a dolphin jumping right out of the water just off shore.
We then drove along the road that passed along the shores of Loch Na Keal and tried to find our otter. Sure enough after spotting a seal playing close to the shore the otter appeared on his island – sadly briefly but a nice sighting all the same. Plenty of curlews, oystercatchers and also some highland cattle which we photographed thinking they were behind a fence – they then just walked onto the road (there was no fence) and we struggled to get past in the car!
On the drive back to Bruach Roineach we did see some deer on top of a hill and a golden eagle gliding along the top of the ridge. Back for another very nice tea and a relaxing evening thinking of our trip to the eagle hide.

Wednesday 5th October

Weather wise this was the worst day of the week so far. Very windy and rainy – so much so that when we got to the Eagle watch meeting point we were informed that as there was nothing to see our meeting was being cancelled. Disappointed we decided to drive to Craignure, have a coffee and get some information about indoor places. It was still windy and wet so we headed home via Loch Na Keal with the intention of waiting for the weather to change (ever the optimist!). The drive along the west cost of Mull around the Killiechronan campsite and then past Ulva Ferry to Calgary has to be the most beautiful drive in Mull if not the entire UK. Weather started to dry up, then it rained again and then it dried up. Still windy but at least you could see something. Stopped for our picnic at Ulva Ferry and watched the waves of rain coming in and the waterfall at Eos Force which was spectacular in the distance. Then continued the drive along the coast and over the top towards Calgary and encountered buzzards (lots), hooded crows (seemed like millions!) and some lovely looking rams with curly horns. We also found a hen harrier which flow up from beside the road and there were also lots of kestrels around.
Back to the cottage early today as the weather was so wet but it dried up and there was a nice clear sky for a possible Calgary Bay sunset. Spent some time experimenting with filters to see what the different effects were and came back with a collection of different landscape, seascape and skyscape shots to play with.
Tomorrow we plan to get to Grasspoint near Loch Don and hopefully the wind will have calmed down and the rain dried up.

Thursday 6th October

No it hasn’t! Still very windy and wet but undeterred we set out to drive back along Loch na Keal but this time we drove south from Calgary. The road was much easier this way as most of it was downhill. It is still a fantastic road to travel along – wild moorland and mountains on one side with the crashing sea on the other.  A little further on we found a buzzard sat on the post – and even when we stopped the car it didn’t fly away! No doors were opened just the window wound down and cameras poked out. Best ever view of a buzzard. Continuing further we reached our otter place but no otter in sight today. There were two white tailed sea eagles sat on a spit of land jutting into the loch looking just like turkeys! Too far for a picture but it was lovely to see them – then one of then took off and we were treated to the sight of an eagle flying over the loch.
Plenty of curlews in a field near the head of the loch (15 in total) but as soon as you try to get out of the car they all fly away. They are easily spooked.
Joining the main road we turned towards Craignure and the south – plan was to get to Grasspoint but the weather intervened again and as the sky was black and full of rain in all directions we turned around and stopped for a picnic in the car park of Duart Castle. The castle looked very menacing in the stormy weather and the mainland opposite vanished while we ate.
No drier after lunch so we decided to drive back to Calgary via Salen to see what was about (nothing) and then back towards home via Aros Bridge. Another nice drive as you travel over high moorland before dropping down into Dervaig before turning left for home. We stopped for some meadow pipits in a lovely setting and then passed the cottage as we went to the tearoom at Calgary for a cup of tea and then walked along the Art in Nature sculpture exhibition towards the beach. We then we walked alongside the bay and ended up at Calgary Pier – lovely old pier made with what appeared to be pink granite blocks.
Back home and then the sky said look at me it is going to be a wonderful sunset! So we dashed to the beach but sadly it rather fizzled out. Never mind there is always tomorrow.

Friday 7th October

Strange object in the sky this morning – round and yellow and we think it might be the sun! No wind, no rain and pleasantly mild. The plan today was to drive to a place called Croig just along the coast towards Dervaig. Off we went and shortly arrived to park at the little harbour still in the sunshine! Cameras and picnic bags at the ready we set off down the river watching herons and curlews – the curlew has a very distinctive cry and it was lovely to hear them. We found a spot to cross the estuary and spent the next 3 hours wandering around. Lots of fungi to be seen and we spotted herons curlews and some rock pipits. Then arriving at a channel between the mainland and a small offshore island we were spotted by some inquisitive seals. They are lovely graceful animals and kept popping their heads up to see what we were doing. We could have spent a long time watching them (or were they watching us?). Then on to the next beach where we saw a snow bunting – a first for us and it was lovely to see it – quite a colourful bird. It was reasonably tolerant of us also which was good allowing us a good view of it.
Then we found a wonderful white sandy beach to have our picnic – what a setting! A lovely Hebridean sky, beach and sea to look at while eating our lunch. A few photos later we headed back towards the car and Croig where we had a look around the lobster pots and then back in the car. Well timed as the heavens opened as soon as we got back to the cottage.
After a cup of tea we walked down the road to Calgary Art in Nature again as we had seen some very photogenic fungi and also found a little boathouse (literally a house with a boat for a roof) with a lovely reflection.
Back home again for some packing and then back to the beach for our last sunset. Not too bad but nothing like the first night when the sky went red!
Then back for further packing and a final lovely tea before settling down for the evening. Tomorrow it is time to catch the ferry to Oban and then home.
During the evening we could hear the stags roaring on the hills and the tawny owl was audible again now that the wind had finally died away.

Saturday 8th October

We woke early this morning to be greeted by rain and low cloud. No problem today as we are sadly on our way home. Once the car was packed we set off towards Craignure in the gloom – however the Red Deer had decided to come out to play and we saw quite a few on the way top the ferry including one magnificent stag who decided to walk across the road in front of us.
Breakfast in Craignure and a quick browse around the tourist information office and then it was time to wave Mull goodbye again and aboard the ferry. Calm crossing to Oban but we did spot some dolphins which was lovely.
Rain in Oban ended the holiday as it had begun but we were left with some wonderfully happy memories of another week on magical Mull.

Mull in May 2011

Mull in May 2011

Thursday night all packed up and ready to go – great excitement as on Friday morning we are off to the North for our holiday on Mull. Bags and cameras are near the front door ready for a quick getaway – the plan is for us all to meet at Leighton Moss RSPB reserve near Carnforth at around 10, spend a few hours there and then travel to Glasgow for our overnight stay on Friday. This means that on Saturday morning we only have another 90 miles to travel to Oban for the 2 o’clock ferry.

So Friday arrives and the weather is dry and bright – even sunny at times! Packed the car in 15 minutes and got away by 7 am – on course for 10am rendezvous. Uneventful journey and arrived full of anticipation for what we might see as Leighton Moss is known for marsh harriers. So we visited the hides in order - our friends Kath & Ken saw a blackbird with a partially white face – known well to the staff! Walking along the paths between hides we saw a shrew, a “woolly bear” (not seen often anymore), some unidentified warblers, a coal tit, some garganey and when we had trekked the distance to the last hide we saw the highlight of the day – two pairs of marsh harriers. One came within a hundred feet from us in the hide which enabled some better than usual pictures.

On the way back to the car we called in at the black headed gull hide (public hide) where there were hundreds of gulls making more gulls! Also saw some great crested and little grebes. Very close pictures – and the yellow flags at the water’s edge were beautiful. Near the visitor centre were loads of tadpoles – first we had seen this year.
So that was Leighton Moss done – oh we also spoke to a man who had seen an otter that morning which was one of our main targets on Mull. Little did we know what was to happen the next day!

So on to Glasgow and a hotel which was newly built on roads that Tom Tom didn’t know existed. A few minutes of confusion reigned and then to the pub for tea. Wetherspoons is a great place for good quality reasonably priced food and drink!

After a good night’s sleep we ended up at Wetherspoons again for breakfast and then a drive to Oban – the best part of the drive so far in beautiful scenery and sunshine. An arrival at 11:30 gave us time for shopping, a walk around the town, some gorgeous prawn and crab sandwiches and then joined the queue for the Isle of Mull ferry called “The Isle of Mull”! It was late but that may have been Lady Luck looking after us as on the drive to our holiday home we came around a bend at the lock side  (Loch Na Keal) and saw a crowd of people (or what passes for a crowd on Mull – half a dozen or so). Car came to an abrupt halt and we quickly ascertained that they were looking at an otter within camera distance eating a fish!

All thought of our destination went out of the window as we spent a very enjoyable hour or so taking photos. Inevitably the otter finally disappeared after bringing a crab back to its island and treating us to great views of an otters dinner!
So that meant we travelled on – seeing a heron, a waterfall, loads of highland cows including one in the middle of the road and sheep everywhere. Eventually arriving quite a bit later than planned to a host of rabbits of all sizes but we were all very happy. Car unloaded, dinner on the table and we all relaxed into the evening with a glass or two of wine.

Sunday dawned wet, overcast and a little chilly but undeterred we set off for Tobermory along one of Mulls B roads. Not like a mainland B road at all! Windy, hilly pot holey, narrow but fortunately lots of passing places – seemed to take ages to do 20 odd miles!! However we arrived and parked (free) – found a chocolate shop selling very nice coffee and with complimentary internet access. Then the rain stopped for a while so we fetched cameras and took pictures of the famous coloured houses of Tobermory and its harbour. Unfortunately it probably makes a better photo with the tide in!

We then left Tobermory behind and stopped for a picnic overlooking the Sound of Mull – in the rain of course! Then onwards to Salen but just before arrival we saw some large birds which turned out to be buzzards but we were convinced they were eagles. We stopped along the coast near Salen to look at some seals and then spotted some eider duck swimming just offshore. Lovely calm water and the birds came quite close giving us some good views.

Travelling back along the shores of Loch Na Keal we stopped near the otter and sure enough he was there again – however it started to pour with rain and the otter vanished so we went home and had tea!

Tomorrow (Monday) we are off for a day out with Bryan Rains (Wild About Mull) so hoping that the rain stops for long enough to enjoy some dry photography opportunities. We are hoping to see eagles (golden and white tailed) and more otters, along with anything else that moves! Oh - and the sun!

Monday. Wet. Not sunny. Cold. TomTom told us which way to go to get to Wild About Mull so we followed – what a road! Narrow, full of pot holes and water. An early start – up at 5:15 and out at 6 o’clock for our 30 minute journey. Two hours later we arrived to find Bryan waiting for us so we loaded all the gear into the back of his van and headed off to see our first target of the day – otters. After searching for a short while one was located swimming along the shore line so we followed it on foot and then in the van till it came closer – we got some great views and best shots of otter so far. A great start, cameras and people soaked but happy to see an otter. Also on the same shoreline was a great northern diver along with whimbrel and curlew.

Then onwards to a white tailed eagles nest which we saw through a scope – it was looking directly at us through the mist. The mist and cloud and rain was a feature of the day but it did not dampen the spirits at all! Next we drove back to Pennyghael for a warm in the store, a hot drink and a wee stop. Along the way we saw little plover, oystercatcher and others. Then to the adders – however despite Bryans best efforts we were unsuccessful so we had lunch instead. After lunch we moved on towards Fionnphort and a search for mountain hare – by now we were all suffering from cold and wet but undeterred we marched across the machair looking for them. Success eventually as we saw one dart over a small hillock and disappear. Wonderful!

Stopped on the way back at a small beach to see what was around – surprising what you can see even on a wet day if you stop long enough. All in all a very enjoyable day in great company – thank you Bryan and Wild About Mull.

Tuesday arrived dry, bright and yes I think we saw some sunshine! Even a few patches of blue sky among the grey. We had a plan to head back down the shores of Loch Na Keal towards Salen and then to Craignure to see what we could find on the loch and the sea shore. However we got as far as the otter stopping place to find a crowd all staring at the forest near the hill top. When asked what they were looking at we were told it was a white tailed eagle sat in a tree top. A kind gentleman offered us a look through his scope at the bird sat in the tree – waiting for the boat to come along which fed them with fish. So we waited a while and sure enough the boat arrived and the eagle set off for it hotly pursued along its way by a buzzard – we always thought that buzzards were big until we saw one at the same time as the eagle!

We could see the eagle within metres of the boat and it came back with a fish in its talons to its nest – the nest was behind the trees so we guess it must have left the fish with its partner and chicks at the nest and then returned for another one. In total three so we got some fantastic views of it. Great start to the day – and it was still not raining!

We then set off towards Salen and then to Craignure but stopped at Fishnish as we thought it was a little seaside village – wrong! It was just a ferry terminal and a small building selling hot drinks and snacks. The Forestry Commission had very kindly placed some picnic tables so we made use of one of them for yet another wonderful picnic. After lunch we explored the beach area but as there was not much about we drove to Salen where we had seen the eider ducks a few days previously. They were not there but we had noticed a couple of wrecked boats which we thought would make good photographic material so this filled the afternoon up until it was time to go home. The weather started to change for the worse – back to the usual Mull grey and rain but we did make a visit to Ulva Ferry to check it out ahead of our white tailed eagle boat trip which we had booked for Friday. Along the road back we did spot a golden eagle soaring over the fields at the side of the road. Another holiday highlight. So back home for another wonderful meal – the weather turned very nasty then with nothing to be seen at all through the windows.

Wednesday. Guess what – rain again! But this time with a very strong wind. Plan was to visit Loch Frisa and then Glengorm so we set off up the coast along a narrow and windy (aren’t they all) road towards Calgary and Dervaig. This time however unlike Sunday the rain stopped and it was sunny (but still windy) so we could see into the distance as well as the moors around us. No mountain hares or eagles here though so stopped at Calgary Bay and got out of the car for a walk along the beach and some rock pooling while the rain held off. Saw some lovely sea anemones including a green one which I had never seen before. Then we got soaked! We found a coffee shop and dried out and warmed up a little afterwards.

Onward then towards Loch Frisa – however the road looked bad from the beginning (most of the roads on Mull look great for a hundred yards and then get bad) so we decided to miss this one and instead turn towards Glengorm – gets a good write up in the Mull information so we thought it would be a good place to visit. The road was even worse than the one to Loch Frisa – this time there was even a sign saying temporary road surface for miles – no mention of how many! It now holds the record for most pot holes on the island! And Glengorm was definitely overstated in the information! Got soaked again – this time with hail! However the coffee shop was warm and the coffee was nice (and even good prices). I think if the weather had been dry it would be a very nice place to spend more time there – standing stones, an old fort and also a natural bathing pool would have made great pictures. There is also a colony of marsh fritillaries there and lots of walking to be done, along with the castle itself (although not really a castle but a hotel) and its gardens.

We then decided to make our way home but stopped in Tobermory for some provisions and as the sun was shining decided to have a little walk around the harbour. So of course it rained again – however this time we fooled it as had not even got out of the car! The road from there passes down a hill near Loch Frisa so we half expected to see eagles but instead there was a buzzard. We attempted some shots but they were too far away and it was too windy and dark. Towards Salen the tide was in and the shoreline would have been a great place to explore but the next wave of showers were on the way so we came back along the road to Ulva ferry and home. Through a torrential downpour, some brilliant sunshine and then more rain. Tide was in so no otter today – time another day for otter spotting. Some things we will have to leave until we return in October – Calgary sunset being one of them. Let’s see what tomorrow brings!

Well we didn’t wait until tomorrow! After another lovely tea we decided to see if we could get to the shore as it looked so inviting. We eventually managed to get through a gate and down to an area of machair which we found a path through to the edge of the small cliff which overhung the shore line. A couple of oystercatchers, a heron and a curlew later we turned around and came back to the house. Oh – and a sunset which was our first of the week. We all said that we must return in the morning, weather permitting. On the way back to the house we saw another golden eagle flying over the hills behind the house – however it was getting darker and it was too far away so no photos. Still – time yet for that!

Thursday already! Decided to head back along Loch Na Keal to see the eagle flying over to the boat but stopped at our waterfall to take some pictures. Fantastic waterfall and with all the rain we had been having the stream was very full and plenty of water going over the fall. We went as close to the cliff edge as we dared to get a photo and then some more walking upstream. Someone was camping in a sheltered flat area at the side if the upper waterfall – what a spot for a tent! Very noisy with the rushing water but very idyllic also. Then on to Loch Na Keal for the eagle feeding – good views in its favourite perch and then the boat arrived for four feeding trips. However the wind was very strong and was blowing the camera and lenses around so no good pictures today! But just to see it was awesome – we were also able to see it catch the fish that was thrown from the boat. Then we travelled a little further and stopped near a campsite to have a wander around on the shore but nothing very interesting. Back home again and had a wander up the hill to find the ruined village before heading back for tea. Sadly we then discovered that our trip on the boat that feeds the sea eagle was cancelled as very strong winds were forecast. We all felt very disappointed and a little flat.
After some thought we came up with plan B for Friday – we would go on a boat trip but just over the water to Ulva on a foot ferry. Good walking was to be had on the island and the weather looked promising – seemed odd that the boat wasn’t able to go out but when we arrived the ferryman said that around the corner it was very rough and windy – we could see the white horses.

We walked over to the west side of the island to see some fantastic views over towards Staffa, Dutchmans Cap and Lunga along with the rest of the Treshnish Isles – abandoned villages, soaring hills and cliffs, hawks and loads of delicate flowers – butterwort in particular was plentiful. The views themselves are well worth the walk and Ulva is a very special place, like lots of the other Scottish islands – if you ever come to Mull you must make time to visit Ulva. For once the rain held off and we were treated to blue skies and sunshine but with a very strong wind, we even managed a picnic outside of a car! Even butterflies! We then got on the ferry for the short (2 minute) trip back to the mainland and drove the few miles back to the Old Steading where we packed and made ready to depart. I then decided to walk over to Ballygown beach just so that I had seen it – walked over the little headland full of bogs and wild flowers to find otter spraint all over the place – no otter though but he obviously visits on a regular basis. There were oystercatchers, gulls of all sorts, a common sandpiper, curlew and a black rabbit!

I had to shelter in a cave while a rain storm blew over but then walked back to the house to see a sea eagle swoop over the house. It flew off fairly quickly but we did see it several times during tea in the distance – nothing like last night or this morning though.

Then after tea while putting the left over bread out for our local sparrows we spotted some deer just over the road so managed to take a few quick shots until a car arrived to send them packing.

So that’s it! All over bar the ferry and the journey home – bit sad but had a really lovely week on the most wonderful of islands. Can’t wait to return to magical Mull in October, only wish it could be sooner!